How Iranians see their part in Persia's 2,500-year story Financial Times, 30 September 2000 On a quiet day, the mausoleum of Ayatollah Seyed Ruhollah Musavi Khomeini looks like an airport terminal where all the flights have been cancelled. People lie dozing on the industrial floor, prefabricated pillars
No sex. No drugs. No flesh. No alcohol. Why would anyone want to holiday in Iran? Arena, September 2000 Mohammed is getting wistful. ‘You should have seen this place before the revolution,’ he says, as we sit in the coffee shop of a mid-range tourist hotel in Tehran. ‘There
How life can change in an instant Arena, August 1999 At first, I thought a car had cut in front of us. Drivers were constantly switching lanes along the potholed dual carriageway that snaked through scrubby desert into downtown Amman. It was late
