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The Russian ee! (and ow! and ouch! and arghh!) rooms

New Yorkers are finding Russian reinvigoration – with a brain-frying, muscle-twisting detox session on E 10th Street   High Life, September 2001 As soon as you push open the wooden door to the schvitz in New York’s Russian and Turkish Baths on E 10th Street, you know you are in no ordinary spa. A wall

By | September 6th, 2001|Writing|0 Comments

‘A pebble on the beach of history’

How Iranians see their part in Persia's 2,500-year story                Financial Times, 30 September 2000 On a quiet day, the mausoleum of Ayatollah Seyed Ruhollah Musavi Khomeini looks like an airport terminal where all the flights have been cancelled. People lie dozing on the industrial floor, prefabricated pillars

By | September 30th, 2000|Writing|0 Comments

Riddle of the sands

No sex. No drugs. No flesh. No alcohol. Why would anyone want to holiday in Iran?        Arena, September 2000   Mohammed is getting wistful. ‘You should have seen this place before the revolution,’ he says, as we sit in the coffee shop of a mid-range tourist hotel in Tehran. ‘There

By | September 6th, 2000|Writing|0 Comments

Death on the road

How life can change in an instant                         Arena, August 1999 At first, I thought a car had cut in front of us. Drivers were constantly switching lanes along the potholed dual carriageway that snaked through scrubby desert into downtown Amman. It was late

By | August 6th, 1999|Writing|0 Comments